Monday, December 14, 2009

The 12 Days of Christmas in the Middle East

By Beth Dobyns

On the first day of Christmas, our kind hosts gave to us,
A pin and a stole from Global Ministries.

On the second day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Two cups of Turkish coffee.

On the third day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Dinner with NEST (Near East School of Theology) and Sharon.

On the fourth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Tours of Iraqi refugee work in Damascus.

On the fifth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Patriarchs and bishops on high in Damascus.

On the sixth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Travel from Jordan into Israel.

On the seventh day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
A trip into Palestine with Maya at the wall.

On the eighth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
touring Holy sites in Jerusalem.

On the ninth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Bethlehem and Shepherds' Fields YMCA.

On the tenth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Ramallah and the ladies of the YWCA.

On the eleventh day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Sabeel and sweet singing children at Rawdat School.

On the twelfth day of Christmas our kind hosts gave to us,
Safe passage home from Israel and the East.
Journal of Day 9 by Sandy Messick

At the start of this journey, we were asked to name our hopes for the trip. I said I wanted to hear stories that I could share with my region and the wider church. That hope has more than been fulfilled. On our last day in Israel we heard yet more stories of hope, despair, and ministry being done by faithful, committed people with our support and on our behalf.
First thing, we visited Rawdat El-Zuhur, a primary school operating in East Jerusalem. This is a Child Sponsorship program of Global Ministries. There we met Salwa Zananiri, the principal who showed us around the school. In each classroom we saw the beautiful faces of children eager to share with us a song, or practice their Arabic reading skills, or demonstrate their Palestinian dance or music skills. The children are taught Arabic, French and English. As has been true throughout the trip, hospitality was abundant as we were served tea or coffee and cookies, and welcomed enthusiastically by students and staff. Mounting the stairs, we came upon a value tree with paper ornaments naming some of the values they are trying to teach: peace, responsibility, compassion, respect, public welfare, and optimism.
Sabeel was our next stop. Sabeel is the Palestinian Ecumenical Liberation Theology Center. There we met the founder and director, Naim Ateek. He shared with us their three areas of focus: Building up the Body of Christ through ecumenical conversations among women, youth, and clergy; Christian-Muslim Relations; and Peace and Justice through introducing people to Palestinian Liberation Theology. He said, “It is not enough for just peace or justice, we need to move on to reconciliation.”
Our last stop before heading to the airport was to visit Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum in Jerusalem. It was rightfully a moving and troubling visit and a reminder of a shameful part of humanity's history. It was also a reminder of what happens when racism is not only accepted but legitimized and legalized and a call to prevent such an event from happening again.
As we headed to the airport, the stories from the past 10 days washed over us. We shared some that were most significant for each of us, and we promised to tell what we have heard and seen. One of the questions we often asked as we met with our mission partners was “Where do you find hope?” The answers varied, but one of the places I found hope was at the Rawdat El-Zuhur school. When the class of older students were asked what they wanted to sing for us, they responded without hesitation. Then they stood and sang together in English, “We shall overcome, we shall overcome, we shall overcome some day, O deep in my heart, I do believe, we shall overcome some day.” By God's grace, may we overcome the walls that divide, may we live in peace, and may we walk hand in hand. In closing, I share with you Salwa's request of each of us, “Pray for us, for hope, for peace, to keep loving each other.”

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Photos from day 7



Meeting with the Christmas Lutheran Church leadership in Bethlehem
Meeting with the YMCA leadership

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem


The location of the manger...

Place where Jesus was born...

In the Shepherds' cave at the YMCA!

"We are midwives of each others' hopes"

Journal of Day 8 by Bill Allen

Our day began at the guest house, where we have been staying since our arrival in Jerusalem, with the typical Middle Eastern breakfast that we have been sharing since our stay in Beirut. This includes such things as sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, cold cuts and cheeses, fava beans and pita bread, and always hard boiled eggs (they have added scrambled eggs here), coffee and fruit and lately sweet rolls.

Following breakfast we went over to the cathedral church and gathered around the baptistery, a marble edifice located at the entrance of the church and designed for immersion with a barrier between the officiating minister and the person being baptized, so the officiant need not get wet. Gathered there our chaplain of the day, Ken Moore led us in morning prayers.

Then we departed for our visit to Jalazone refugee camp in Ramallah. On the way we visited the impressive tomb of Yasser Arafat. At Jalazone we were greeted by our mission partners at the YWCA and they introduced us to their impressive work with children and women. They have a lively group of kindergarteners who entertained and amused us and won our hearts. They also have programs for women including a craft program. They were preparing beautiful items for sale at an upcoming Christmas fair.

We then went to visit a refugee woman whose 16 year old son was killed earlier this year in the hostilities of this region. Needless to say that was a touching and memorable moment.

We then went to visit mission partners at the Friends International Center in Ramallah (FICR) where we were treated to a delicious lunch and engaged in a stimulating and informative conversation with the leaders there who are truly remarkable individuals engaged in significant work centering on cultural and educational activities. (Quakers will always be engaged in education.)

The Friends Meeting House leader most recently participated in the writing of the “Charter for Compassion.” She provided us with numerous memorable thoughts and quotations including proposing that all of us need one another because we are “the midwives of each others’ hopes.”

Driving out of Ramallah we saw the headquarters of the Palestinian Legislative Council and the home of the prime minister of the Palestinian National Authority.

We drove on back to Jerusalem where we met with the impressive, vital and well-informed representatives of B’Tselem, The Israeli Information Center for Human Rights in the Occupied Territories. This is an organization with which Global Ministries partners in some of its programs and we had a lively and far-ranging conversation.

Following this meeting we returned to the guest house for our regular debriefing followed by dinner and our last evening before our return home. It’s been another rich and full day and we are most grateful to Global Ministries and our program leaders for making this pilgrimage possible.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Let's get over to Bethlehem as fast as we can!

Journal Day 7 by Beth Dobyns

We usually think of Christmas as a time to give and receive gifts.This December day our group traveled to Bethlehem and Beit Sahour, and we received many gifts. We heard about excellent programs that help with psychological and physical rehabilitation after the many wars and unrest in this region of the world. They have been doing work that ranks as some of the best in the world when it comes to dealing with children and helping them through post traumatic stress disorder. Art therapy and play therapy are some of the effective tools that are used. Physical rehabilitation programs are also in place to help persons, primarily under 18, to receive needed physical therapy in order to recover from their injuries. It has been difficult to get to treatment for many since the construction of the wall. This program helps to bring care to those who need it. We also visited Shepherds’ Grotto and heard about some of the special Christmas programs that will begin shortly. Next we traveled to Bethlehem, and we were reminded this morning of the scripture theme for the Christmas offering: “Let’s get over to Bethlehem as fast as we can!” And that is what we did. Entering the Church of the Nativity was a moving experience. It is the oldest church building that has always been a church in the world. Coming into the church you see a long string of chandeliers and lights hanging through the nave and the chancel area. While it is not a bright, modern place, it is a place of reverence. Down a narrow stairway, you come to the altars that house the place where Jesus was born and the manger area. You can kneel down and put your hand on the stone that is exposed on the supposed place of the birth of Jesus. The manger is a few steps away and is lined with eternal lights and a painting of Mary and the baby. People came to pray silently, to look and to touch, and to take a moment to consider the place. A worship service was going on in the church adjacent to the site, and lovely organ music floated down. It was a gracious gift to receive on this day in December. We visited other partners also in Bethlehem who are doing ministry and carrying out their work as teachers and pastors with a view of the world that includes all people and so many imaginative, creative ideas. Their witness is a joyful and effective one even in a place that often sees violence and pain. As we talked about forming new partnerships and looking at new possibilities we were reminded,“After all, Bethlehem is certainly the place of incarnation!” Well said and well done, partners in global ministry!

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Photos from day 6

Meeting with a Palestinian leader
Learning about the Wall
Learning about the Settlements in the background
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Bar Mitzvah (sp?) at the Wailing Wall
The Dome of the Rock


Holy Places in Jerusalem

Day 6 journal by Beth Dobyns

Today we have seen a number of the Holy places in Jerusalem. Our group had an excellent tour guide accompany us as we visited theTemple Mount, the Dome of the Rock, and the Western Wall (WailingWall). Along the way we discussed the sense of shared origins in these sites, realizing that these same places of reverence are the cause of discord among Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It is admittedly a different feeling to be told that we had to take off any cross jewelry and we could not take Bibles onto the Temple Mount. Since this particular part of the site is common to all three groups no one is able to bring any “symbol of ritual” on the visit. It is also a little different for us Disciples to discover that there are some places which we are not allowed to enter. Respect for other traditions guided us in understanding this direction. Our group also visited the Mount of Olives and the Gethsemane Church as well as the Dominus Flevit Church, the place where Jesus wept over Jerusalem. An outcropping of rock is preserved in the Gethsemane site as the place where Jesus knelt to pray. The church contains some lovely mosaics and it is a quiet place to stop for prayer. Outside….the grove of olive trees stand guard. Some have been planted on special occasions over the years, and some of the trees are ancient. The gnarled trunks and dusty green leaves present a living witness to struggle and celebration over the years since Jesus moved among the streets and gardens of Jerusalem. The group also had a chance to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, also known as the Church of the Resurrection. This church is considered one of the most holy sites in the world, for it is believed to be built over the tomb of Jesus. We were certainly remembering the words of the song, “I walked today where Jesus walked.” This afternoon we toured areas in the West Bank and learned a lot more about Palestine. We heard about the separation barrier and its impact on the communities on either side. It was a day of listening once again, and trying to understand more about settlements and their development over the years. It is a complex situation and a place in the world that is often the focus of debate and disagreement. We found this to be an amazing opportunity to see communities that are so near the Holy Sites and so far from peace. Every day we have had the opportunity to learn/see more than we can process. But we have been honored to have the time each day to debrief our experiences and impressions from the day. It is helpful to be able to ask for clarification while we are here. We have also had some moments of levity, and that is part of the trip as well. Perhaps you will see a picture of some of the cats of the Middle East! We have seen them everywhere. We have also had the chance to sample Turkish coffee almost every day along with all kinds of wonderful food. Our group is grateful for the hospitality we have received from so many Christians every day of our journey.